Cleaning and caring for leather furniture properly – tips for dealing with cracks, stains and colour damage.

Most furniture leathers are single-coloured, surface-dyed, matt to silk-matt cowhide leathers. However, there are also aniline leathers (open-pored smooth leathers), suede leathers (such as chamois leather) or shiny, coated PU leathers. With aniline leathers, a drop of water rubbed onto the leather (not in the stressed area) is absorbed and darkens the leather.

The following instructions apply to surface-dyed, single-colour, matt smooth leather. You can request detailed information on other types of furniture leather directly from us.

Our recommendation for leather care for new leather:

If there is visible dirt, the leather should be cleaned with COLOURLOCK Mild Cleaner. Depending on use, the leather must be treated with COLOURLOCK Leather Sealant every 3 to 6 months. This effectively prevents signs of wear, dirt and discolouration.

Due to the coronavirus pandemic, the contact surfaces of leather furniture are being cleaned and disinfected more frequently than usual. To prevent the leather colours from dissolving when using standard disinfectants with high alcohol content, we recommend COLOURLOCK Hygiene Cleaner for leather, imitation leather and plastic surfaces. This cleaner can be used to clean and disinfect such surfaces without damaging the material.

Staining from clothing on light-coloured leather has increased in recent years. For such leathers, we recommend regularly treating the contact surfaces with COLOURLOCK Leather Sealant. This prevents the stains from penetrating too deeply. Clean first!

Our recommendation for treating older leather:

If there is visible dirt, the leather must be cleaned with COLOURLOCK Mild Cleaner before care. If the dirt is deep in the grain, the soft COLOURLOCK Leather Cleaning Brush should also be used.

Due to the coronavirus pandemic, the contact surfaces of leather furniture are being cleaned and disinfected more frequently than usual. To prevent the leather colours from being dissolved by commercially available disinfectants with high alcohol content, we recommend COLOURLOCK Hygiene Cleaner for leather, imitation leather and plastic surfaces. This cleaner can be used to clean and disinfect such surfaces without damaging the material.

In the case of slight fading, abrasion and scuffing, the original colour of the leather can be refreshed with our COLOURLOCK Leather Fresh in the appropriate colour (according to the colour chart or sample). At the same time, the surface is resealed. Areas to be repaired or tinted should be degreased with COLOURLOCK Degreaser before treatment to ensure that the repair products adhere well.

For preservation and care, we recommend our COLOURLOCK Leather Protector. Its antioxidants stop the leather from deteriorating. UV filters protect the surfaces of old and valuable leathers from fading. In addition, the leather regains a supple surface.

We sometimes offer solutions for more extensive damage. However, you should always email us pictures or describe the damage beforehand. We will then check whether it is possible to repair it yourself using our products. Rough or brittle areas should be smoothed beforehand with the leather sanding pad. Deeper dry cracks and smaller tears can be closed with our COLOURLOCK liquid leather. Large areas of rough seating surfaces must be stabilised with COLOURLOCK Colour Neutral.

However, professional refurbishment of your leather upholstery can also be carried out by specialist companies. We would be happy to recommend the nearest specialist company.

You can clean, repair and maintain typical stains and signs of wear on leather furniture with our products.

Minor damage can be easily repaired with liquid leather. Liquid leather is a tinted filler for repairing small holes, tears, deep scratches and breaks. Liquid leather fills and bonds such damage and remains soft and flexible after drying.

With our Fresh tint, you can refurbish the colour of your furniture.

The following instructions describe the products and their order of application for repairing smooth leather.

It is therefore important and necessary to distinguish between smooth and aniline leathers, so you should first carry out a water drop test. To do this, simply take a small drop of water and apply it to a concealed, unstressed area and rub it in. If the water is absorbed and the leather darkens, it is aniline leather; if the drop rolls off, it is smooth leather.

If you have aniline leather, please contact us again, as the following instructions are only suitable for smooth leather.

Preparation
Liquid leather is only suitable for damage to leather that needs to be filled. Scratches and signs of wear that are only in the colour layer of the leather do not need to be treated with liquid leather. In this case, smoothing with a sanding pad and colour matching with Leather Fresh are sufficient.
After drying, liquid leather always has a smooth and shiny surface. To make the repair area less visible, the damaged area must be colour-matched with Leather Fresh after repair. Dab the Leather Fresh on several times with a sponge and dry with a hairdryer until the desired coverage is achieved.
Thoroughly degrease the repair areas before treatment with our degreaser to remove old care product residues.
Smooth out rough areas, scratches and broken edges before treatment with our leather sanding pad.
Always carry out liquid leather repairs on hardened leather before treatment with old leather softener. Otherwise, the re-greasing would reduce the adhesion of the liquid leather.
Procedure

As the recommended products only produce good results when used in the correct order and application, the following text provides detailed instructions on how to best clean, repair and care for typical stains and signs of wear on vehicle leather using our products.

Step 1:
Pre-clean the leather in the area where the colour is intact using the cleaner. The leather cleaner is excellent at removing normal dirt. If, in the case of light-coloured leather, this is mainly in the grain, then you should definitely use our soft brush.

Our range includes a mild leather cleaner and a strong leather cleaner. Use the mild leather cleaner for light to normal dirt. For heavy dirt or leather that has become shiny or greasy over time and you want to make a little more matt again, you need to use the strong leather cleaner.

Tip: A sponge and brush are the best tools for cleaning. Remove any cleaning residue with a cloth slightly dampened with water.

Step 2:
Use the degreaser to degrease the areas to be repaired and remove old care product residues that the leather cleaner does not dissolve. This is important to ensure that the colour refreshers adhere well with Leather Fresh. The area of the steering wheel that comes into contact with the skin must also always be degreased before applying Leather Fresh.

Tip: If you are unsure whether the surface has been sufficiently degreased, stick some masking tape to it. If it is difficult to remove, the leather has been degreased properly.

Step 3:
Areas that have become rough due to wear and tear must be smoothed with the leather sanding pad before repairing or dyeing. To do this, place the leather sanding pad on the damaged area and sand the area smooth again without applying too much pressure.

Tip: Remove the sanding dust with a cloth moistened with degreaser.

Step 4:
Longer tears and breaks that are under tension should be backed with a tensioning fabric. To do this, cut the fabric in a circle so that the radius behind the tear overlaps by approx. 2 to 3 centimetres.

Then hold the tensioning fabric in place with a needle in the middle and use the spatula to push the edge of the fabric under the leather. Run the dispensing tip of the leather adhesive around the edge between the fabric and the leather and distribute the adhesive evenly. For breaks, superficial cuts or frayed areas of wear, use the mini brush to help.

Allow the leather adhesive to dry under pressure for approx. 15–30 minutes.

You can then easily repair the tear with liquid leather. Liquid leather is a tinted and flexible filler for repairing small holes, tears, deep scratches and breaks in leather and imitation leather. The liquid leather fills and bonds, remaining soft and flexible after drying.

Tip: Run your fingernail over the damaged area. If your fingernail gets caught in the breaks, you will need the liquid leather.

The liquid leather is available in the colours of our colour chart or mixed to match a sample. Remove the cap from the tube and fill the damaged areas evenly with the liquid leather.

Use the spatula tool to smooth the liquid leather immediately afterwards. Depending on the amount applied and the room temperature, the liquid leather takes one to two hours to dry. As the liquid leather shrinks slightly during this process, it must be repeated until the repair area is as smooth as possible.

Repair areas that are not sufficiently smooth or clean can be smoothed afterwards with the GLD pen. To do this, apply light pressure to the repaired area to loosen and smooth the surface. Alternatively, you can also smooth the area with the leather sanding pad after loosening.

Please always work carefully and use only a small amount of GLD so that the repair area does not become blurred. Allow the liquid leather to dry in between. This way, you can rework the repair until you are satisfied with the result. However, the areas will not be completely invisible after repair.

Tip: If the felt tip of the GLD pen is dirty or worn, remove the tip and reinsert it upside down. Be sure to keep this tip in mind when changing colours!

Step 5:
Next, touch up the colour damage and repair areas that you have filled with liquid leather using the leather colour refresher (Leder Fresh) in the appropriate colour and dry with a hair dryer. Leder Fresh will not stain clothing after drying.

The tint refreshes the colour in the case of scratches, abrasions, signs of wear and dry cracks.

You must shake the Leather Fresh well before use and never apply it directly to the leather, but rather with a sponge in a circular motion or by dabbing. For larger areas, you can work from seam to seam. In areas where opaque colouring is required, the tint must be dabbed on several times and dried in between with a hairdryer (not too hot!).

Tip: An uneven application can be evened out with the leather sanding pad and re-tinted.

Step 6:
Finally, you should care for and protect your leather. It is important that you only do this one day after tinting. The Leather Fresh should be completely dry before it comes into contact with liquid, and the care product should be applied gently without rubbing too hard.

Use the Leather Protector to care for and preserve the result. The Leather Protector protects the leather by replenishing its oils (keeps the leather soft), UV filters (prevents fading) and antioxidants (prevents deterioration). If the leather is exposed to moisture or is very old, dry or shiny, we recommend our Elephant Leather Grease as additional care and impregnation. If the leather continues to be subject to heavy use, apply the Leather Sealant to the entry area a few days after applying the Leather Protector. This will reduce wear and tear caused by friction in this area. The Leather Sealant is also suitable for caring for the steering wheel and gear knob to reduce abrasion caused by hand grease.

Tip: First apply the care product sparingly to a cloth and then apply it to the leather in a circular motion from seam to seam. Excess care product can be removed with a cloth slightly moistened with water. Regular and sparing cleaning and care will extend the life of your leather!

The products will not make the leather look like new, but any areas that are currently damaged will be barely noticeable or not noticeable at all afterwards. It will look like very well-preserved, old leather. If you are not satisfied with this result, you will need to visit a leather repair shop or have the leather professionally dyed yourself.

Special features

A hole with missing leather
Holes should first be reinforced on the back by gluing them down. To do this, use thin fabric and leather glue. Then cut a piece of leather from the original cover in a concealed area and cut it to size for insertion. Then glue the appropriately cut piece of leather in place with our leather glue. Close the remaining gap with the liquid leather as described above.

A tear in the leather
Leather that is already torn must first be checked to see whether it would be better to replace it. In particular, long tears in old and brittle leather or tears in areas subject to heavy wear are often irreparable or do not last long after repair. We only recommend repairing tears in leather that is still stable and where the tear is only a few centimetres long.

The procedure: First, temporarily glue small tears that are not under tension end to end with our leather adhesive. Then close the tear with liquid leather as described above. Tears that are under tension should be backed with thin fabric. For very large tears and very brittle leather, you can place a seam with knots downwards every 3-4 centimetres. Then conceal the thread with liquid leather. Pierce a hole to the left and right of the tear (the leather must not be too brittle there) and thread sewing thread through with a round needle. Place the knot on the back and pull only until the tear is butt jointed. However, tears that are too large in stressed areas or leather that is too weak or hardened overall should be replaced with new leather.

Aniline leathers are dyed smooth leathers without a protective colour coating on the surface. The leather is open-pored. Moisture penetrates the leather and darkens it. Some aniline leathers have a light protective coating that impregnates the surface.

The advantages of such leathers are a pleasant warm feel and a natural structure. The disadvantage is their sensitivity. Over time, the typical patina of open-pored smooth leather develops. Stains may appear and the leather fades more easily.

If an aniline leather is still new, it needs stain protection. Depending on the type of leather, the following products are suitable for this purpose: COLOURLOCK Aniline Cream and COLOURLOCK Impregnation. Aniline leathers are differentiated according to their open porosity (sensitivity).

Leather without any protective coating is particularly susceptible to stains. This is especially true for lighter colours. In such cases, COLOURLOCK Impregnation is the first choice. This also applies to particularly coarse-pored leather.

COLOURLOCK Aniline Cream is used for fine-pored leather. This product provides intensive protection for fine-pored aniline leather and, when used regularly, offers a strong impregnating effect against all types of stains and dirt. Important: Only protection applied from the outset protects against stains. Stains that have already been absorbed usually cannot be removed without the help of a specialist company. Prevention is therefore very important.

Stressed areas should be re-treated at least every three months. Before each re-treatment, carefully clean the leather with COLOURLOCK Aniline Cleaner. However, stains that have already been absorbed can only be removed by specialist companies. As aniline leather is open-pored, you should use as little water as possible and always clean from seam to seam to avoid edges and stains.

For extremely absorbent and sensitive leathers, a double treatment is recommended for protection. First, impregnate the leather twice with COLOURLOCK Impregnation. Then treat again with COLOURLOCK Aniline Cream. This method provides maximum impregnation protection. Please note: even with this double protection, aniline leather is not impervious! The best protection for aniline leather is and remains careful handling.

For older, dry leathers, use COLOURLOCK Aniline Protector for care, re-greasing and UV protection.

Older, single-colour, slightly faded and scuffed aniline leathers can be re-tinted with our COLOURLOCK Aniline Fresh. The leather colour is restored. Areas that are colour-matched with Leather Fresh should be lightly degreased beforehand with COLOURLOCK Degreaser. Light grease stains on the headrest and armrests can only be improved with COLOURLOCK Grease Remover Spray. Please refer to our information text for more details. Heavily stained and faded aniline leathers should be cleaned by a specialist company. Our products and those available on the market cannot solve such problems. The stains often become larger. In this case, it is better to ask us for advice.

Quick tips

When should I use the impregnation and when should I use the cream?
If leather has obviously large pores and a drop of water penetrates immediately, the leather is susceptible to stains. In such cases, impregnation is always the first choice. If the drop of water remains on the leather and is only absorbed when rubbed in, then Aniline Cream is the first choice. This product also evens out slight signs of wear. If you are unsure, protection with impregnation and subsequent care with Aniline Protector for older leathers is the safest way to avoid stains and smears. If in doubt, you are also welcome to email us a full view and close-up of your leather at info@lederzentrum.de.

Is Aniline Cream necessary at all?

This product has a balancing effect on signs of wear and slight lightening.

When can I use COLOURLOCK Aniline & Nubuk Cleaner?

As aniline leather is open-pored, it must be treated with care. Very dark leather and leather that has been impregnated so that liquids do not penetrate immediately are not a problem. Therefore, always test the product on a concealed area first. Apply a little cleaner (not too wet!) to a cloth and clean carefully. Always work from seam to seam and allow the cleaner to dry first. Do not rub or scrub stains that have been absorbed for too long. This can permanently alter the surface of the leather and lead to further staining. Work with particular care on light-coloured and very open leathers. If in doubt, it is better to ask for advice than to make the problem worse.

Nubuck and suede leather are sanded leathers with a more or less velvety surface. The advantages are a pleasantly warm feel and a beautiful texture. The disadvantage is their sensitivity. Suede leather becomes shiny and greasy over time, stains more easily and fades more quickly.

If suede leather is still new but needs care, we recommend our COLOURLOCK Aniline Protector. It cares for the leather and protects it from drying out and fading. If there is a risk of stains, the leather should also be treated with our COLOURLOCK Impregnation for Suede Leather after care. In case of heavy use, this should be done after one year at the latest and then more frequently.

If the suede leather is already stained or shiny, it should be cleaned and cared for with our COLOURLOCK Suede Leather Care Set. The set includes a COLOURLOCK Leather Sanding Pad and a COLOURLOCK Nubuck Eraser, which can be used to clean and roughen the leather. This will make the leather more even and velvety again. Wet cleaners are not very effective on suede leather. The leather gets wet, the cleaning effect is minimal, and there is a risk of streaking. However, removable leather covers can be washed by hand or in the washing machine with our COLOURLOCK Leather and Fur Wash Concentrate. Re-impregnation is also recommended here.

For slightly greasy suede leather where sanding with a sanding pad is not sufficient, lightly dampen a cloth with COLOURLOCK Degreaser and wipe it over the leather to remove the shiny areas. Caution: Do not wet too much, do not rub too hard and always allow to dry in between.

Fresh grease or oil stains and heavily greasy areas should be removed with our COLOURLOCK grease remover spray. Please refer to our information text for more details.

For suede leather, you can refresh the colour with our COLOURLOCK Nubuk Fresh, the dye for suede leather. As a rule, you will need 1 litre of dye for one set, as suede leather is highly absorbent.

Unfortunately, suede is a delicate leather and will never look like new again after cleaning and care. However, with the recommended products, you have everything you need to treat this leather yourself without any problems.

For more severe fading and excessive soiling, you should consult a specialist workshop. However, extreme cases cannot be saved. Ask us for a recommendation for a competent company.

Nubuck leather is cowhide leather that has been sanded on the grain side. In the case of embossed nubuck leather, a darker grain pattern is also printed onto the nubuck. The light, raised areas are then suede leather and the dark grain pattern is actually smooth leather. However, the leather is treated like nubuck leather.

The advantages of nubuck leather are its pleasantly warm feel and beautiful texture. The disadvantage is its sensitivity. Over time, the leather becomes shiny and greasy, it stains more easily and fades more quickly.

If suede leather is still new but needs care, we recommend the products from our COLOURLOCK suede leather care set: COLOURLOCK Aniline Protector cares for the leather and protects it from drying out and fading. If there is a risk of stains, the leather should also be treated with our COLOURLOCK impregnation for suede leather after care. If the leather is subject to heavy wear, this should be done after a year at the latest and then more frequently.

If grease marks or stains appear, the leather can be roughened up again with the COLOURLOCK sanding pad or the COLOURLOCK nubuck eraser. But be careful: the darker grain pattern is often already worn down from use and will become even less visible as a result of sanding and erasing.

For more heavily greasy areas where sanding with the sanding pad is not sufficient, lightly moisten a cloth with COLOURLOCK degreaser and wipe it over the leather to remove the shiny spots. Caution: Do not wet too much, do not rub too hard and always allow to dry in between. Removable leather covers can be easily washed by hand or in the washing machine with our COLOURLOCK Leather and Fur Wash Concentrate.

Fresh grease or oil stains and heavily greasy areas should be removed with our COLOURLOCK Grease Remover Spray. Please refer to our information text for details.

For darker suede leathers that are not too faded, you can refresh the colour with our COLOURLOCK Nubuk Fresh, the dye for suede leather. As a rule, you will need 1 litre of dye for a set, as suede leather is highly absorbent. Before treating with Nubuk Fresh, degrease the surface with our COLOURLOCK Degreaser. However, even colour refreshing cannot make the leather look like new. Afterwards, care for and impregnate the leather with our COLOURLOCK Aniline Protector and COLOURLOCK Impregnation.

Unfortunately, suede leathers are delicate and will never look like new again after cleaning and care. However, with the recommended products, you have everything you need to treat this leather yourself without any problems.

For more severe fading and excessive soiling, you should consult a specialist workshop. However, extreme cases cannot be saved. Ask us for a recommendation for a competent company.

Buffalo leather has an open surface and coarse pores. A drop of water rubbed into the surface penetrates and darkens the leather. The advantages are a pleasantly warm feel and a beautiful texture. In addition, buffalo leather is usually robust and durable. The disadvantage is its sensitivity. Over time, buffalo leather becomes shiny and greasy, it stains more easily and often fades.

If buffalo leather is still new but needs care, we recommend our Aniline Protector. It cares for the leather and protects it from drying out and fading. If there is a risk of stains, the leather should also be treated with our impregnation after care. If the leather is subject to heavy wear, this should be done after one year at the latest and then more frequently.

Due to the open pores of the leather, stains cannot simply be wiped off. The stains are usually absorbed. Stains can therefore be treated more successfully with the leather sanding pad or the nubuck eraser. Grease stains can best be cleaned with the degreaser. Fresh grease or oil stains should be removed with our COLOURLOCK grease remover spray. Please refer to our information text for more details.

After cleaning, care and re-waterproofing is recommended. Buffalo leather is a patina leather. The patina is a desired effect of this type of leather. Therefore, buffalo leather will not look like new again after cleaning and care. With the recommended products, you have the right range of care products to achieve the best possible results.

For darker buffalo leather, you can also refresh the colour with our Nubuk Fresh, the tint for buffalo leather. Before doing so, degrease the leather over a large area with our degreaser and level it with the leather sanding pad. Experience has shown that 1 litre of tint is required for a set, as buffalo leather is highly absorbent. If it is possible to apply Nubuk Fresh with a spray gun, this is easier and ensures a more even application.

Extreme fading and heavily greasy areas should be treated by a specialist workshop. Ask us for a recommendation for a competent company.

Fabrics such as Alcantara or Amaretta are ultra-microfibre materials (synthetic materials) that have a leather-like surface. They look and feel like suede leather.

These fabrics must be vacuumed regularly and occasionally wiped with a damp cloth.
For stains and ‘normal’ dirt, you can use our textile cleaner. This is excellent for cleaning Alcantara in furniture and cars, as well as microfibre and other delicate textile surfaces.

Shake the bottle before use. Always test the cleaner on a concealed area first to check for any changes!

Large-area cleaning: Lightly moisten the soiled surface with the cleaner and immediately absorb it carefully with a terry cloth towel. Repeat if necessary.

Stain removal: Apply the cleaner to a sponge or soft brush. Squeeze foam out of the sponge. Clean the surface with circular movements. Then rub with a slightly damp cloth. Do not rub too hard! Do not use too much water!

For stains that cannot be removed, it is better to contact a professional upholstery cleaner or vehicle detailer before damaging the surface with harsh cleaners.

Fresh stains should always be absorbed immediately with an absorbent, clean cloth. Either dab or wipe towards the centre and do not rub. Do not rub too hard, as this may permanently alter the surface. For larger stains, always clean from seam to seam.

Greasy stains and marks can also be carefully cleaned with our leather degreaser. Always test on a concealed area first and check for any changes.

To reduce future soiling and stains, you should treat the surface with our impregnation.
Heat should be kept away from Alcantara. For example, a cigarette burn causes irreparable damage to Alcantara.

We regularly receive enquiries about ‘knots’ or ‘felting’ and roughened areas. However, mild felting can be removed with a sanding pad. Either it is easy to remove, or it is already too advanced. If it cannot be removed, unfortunately the only option is to have the seats reupholstered.

Faux leather is a robust and easy-care material. It is an inexpensive alternative to natural and durable genuine leather.

Stains can be easily cleaned with COLOURLOCK Faux Leather Cleaner. For stubborn stains, soak briefly and use the COLOURLOCK brush. For maintenance, protect the surfaces with COLOURLOCK Artificial Leather Protector. This creates an invisible protective film on the surface, which prevents dirt from penetrating and preserves the character of the surface. The recommended products are available together in the COLOURLOCK Artificial Leather Care Set.

Due to the coronavirus pandemic, leather, faux leather and plastic surfaces that are in constant contact with skin are being cleaned and disinfected more frequently than usual. To prevent the surfaces from being dissolved or weakened by commercially available disinfectants with high alcohol content, we recommend COLOURLOCK Hygiene Cleaner for leather, faux leather and plastic surfaces. This cleaner can be used to clean and disinfect such surfaces without damaging the material.

Older plastics and imitation leather lose their plasticisers over time and become dry, brittle and sometimes crack. This process can only be influenced to a limited extent. Regular cleaning and sealing delays this process.

You can seal smaller cracks and breaks with our COLOURLOCK Liquid Leather. Then finish with Leather Fresh to adjust the shine and colour. This procedure also applies to cat scratches, as long as the extent is still manageable. Protruding fibres can be glued down with a needle tip of COLOURLOCK leather adhesive. Apply a little adhesive with the needle tip, dry with a hairdryer and press down. Fresh, excess adhesive can be wiped off with COLOURLOCK degreaser in the direction of the grain.

Large areas of the surface often break or flake off. Such damage usually occurs in areas that are subject to wear and tear. This type of damage can only be repaired if it is still in its early stages. However, as the deterioration process usually spreads quickly, no real help is possible. Cover such areas to keep the strain to a minimum.

Preserve older imitation leather with our COLOURLOCK Imitation Leather Protector. This product protects surfaces from abrasion marks and dirt. The Imitation Leather Protector does not change the degree of gloss and does not make the surface ‘greasy’. Apply the Imitation Leather Protector sparingly to a lint-free cloth and treat the surface evenly.

‘Oiled leather’, ‘waxed leather’ or ‘pull-up leather’ are leathers in which the top layer of colour is a dyed layer of oil or wax. This type of leather is particularly widespread in shoes and bags. In the furniture sector, the term ‘saddle leather’ is also used for this type of leather.

With oiled leather, the grain is preserved, whereas with pull-up leather, the grain is sanded down during production. Oiled and pull-up leather are available in a wide variety of designs. Smooth or coarse-grained and from matt to shiny. Characteristic features of these leathers are a patina look, the easy formation of signs of wear through scratches and slight discolouration when rubbed with a damp cloth. The discolouration occurs because the oils and fats used for surface treatment are coloured.

However, there are also leathers that are called ‘pull-up’ but only have a ‘pull-up’ look. These are so-called polyurethane-coated split leathers, or PU leathers. Such leathers do not show signs of wear when scratched with a fingernail and do not transfer colour to a white, damp cloth. PU leathers are usually made from inexpensive split leather. It is not high-quality leather.

Important! This type of leather must be cared for differently! Otherwise, damage will occur.
Please refer to the relevant instructions (cleaning and care of PU split leather and imitation leather (glossy)).

Contrary to expectations, new oiled leather or pull-up leather is usually open-pored. Raindrops and other liquids soak into the leather and leave stain marks. The test is simple. Rub a drop of water into a concealed area. If it soaks in and the leather darkens, it is open-pored. For this type of leather, COLOURLOCK impregnation is the best initial care as stain protection. For oiled or pull-up leathers, where a drop of water does not penetrate, COLOURLOCK Aniline Cream is the first choice. In contrast to impregnation, the cream variants are more effective at evening out signs of wear. However, this can lead to patchy results on open-pored oiled or pull-up leathers. If in doubt, impregnation is therefore the first choice for everyday care.

For everyday cleaning, oiled and pull-up leather can be dusted with a soft cloth or feather duster. It can also be wiped with a slightly damp cloth. However, do not use too much moisture and do not rub too hard. Otherwise, stains or colour abrasion may occur.

It is typical for oiled leather to show signs of wear or patina after a short period of use. This is a desired effect of this type of leather. Scratching with your fingernail will cause a light mark.

Light signs of wear can be polished out with a soft, dry cloth. This rubs in the grease or oil and evens out the scratches. If the marks are more pronounced, the cloth can be slightly moistened with water. For even more pronounced signs of wear, slightly moisten the cloth with COLOURLOCK Aniline Cream and polish out the signs of wear. To be on the safe side, always test the procedure on a concealed area first! For very delicate leathers, first use COLOURLOCK impregnation and then polish out the signs of wear.

Dark areas can be lightened again by stretching the surface. With all procedures, care must always be taken to maintain as homogeneous a surface as possible. Therefore, always treat both shoes, all main surfaces of a bag or all seats of a set.

If there are changes to the leather that cannot be improved in this way, always seek advice from a specialist company first.

Staining from textiles or leather on light-coloured smooth leather is a common occurrence. This usually affects car and furniture leather. The stains are caused by a wide variety of clothing items. Jackets, trousers and belts are the main culprits. Denim, stretch fabrics, other types of fabric and leather release dyes.

If you are lucky, these can still be removed with simple cleaning. However, sometimes it is too late for that. If you wait too long, the dyes will soak into the leather surface. These stains can then no longer be removed with standard cleaners.

Therefore, we recommend always trying to clean the discoloured surface first with COLOURLOCK Leather Cleaner Mild or Strong and the COLOURLOCK brush. If the stains cannot be removed in this way, the surface must also be cleaned with COLOURLOCK GLD, a solvent cleaner.

Apply GLD to a clean, white terry cloth and carefully clean the surface with it. Always test on a concealed area first! GLD dissolves the colour coating. When attempting to remove the stains, some colour may also be removed. You must be very careful not to completely remove the colour layer.

If visible paint removal occurs or the discolouration cannot be completely removed, then such areas must be retinted with COLOURLOCK Leather Fresh in the appropriate colour. For colour changes where high coverage is required, dab the tint on several times and dry with a hairdryer in between. Smooth any areas roughened by cleaning with GLD beforehand using the COLOURLOCK 4000 polishing pad.

To prevent further discolouration, the leather should be protected regularly with leather sealant. Leather sealant provides good protection against discolouration. Clean the leather thoroughly before sealing.

PU split leather is a shiny leather, usually in brownish colours, with a glossy surface and an antique look. It is sold as ‘Bycast leather’ or leather with a ‘pull-up look’ or ‘pull-up leather’, among other names. It is a dyed cowhide split leather with a film coating. The surface coating has a grained texture. There is also imitation leather with the same look.

The advantage of this PU split leather is its price. Split leathers are inexpensive, but generally not particularly durable. The polyurethane coating is what gives the leather its stability. Its breathability is significantly lower than that of higher-quality leathers. Due to the thick coating, these leathers are ‘colder’ than uncoated leathers and tend to stick to the skin.

Due to the thick coating, the care requirements are completely different from those for uncoated leathers. With PU-coated leathers, the focus is not on ‘leather care’ but on caring for the polyurethane coating. Classic leather care products cannot penetrate the coating, and wax-containing or oily ingredients can even damage the PU coating. In addition, the leather is very sensitive in areas that come into contact with skin and hair. The material becomes sticky and cracked. Regular cleaning and care in the contact area is therefore very important.

PU split leather should be dusted with a lint-free dry or slightly damp cloth as needed. Every 3 to 6 months, the leather should be cleaned and cared for with our PU Protector. Lightly moisten a lint-free, soft cloth with the PU protector and wipe the PU coating. Dirt is removed, the surface becomes more supple again, slight signs of wear are evened out and the shine is preserved.

Deep scratches and abrasions are more difficult to treat. Sometimes scratches can be removed by heating them with a hairdryer. The leather must be heated to a high temperature, and with a little luck, the scratch will disappear almost completely. However, this must be done with extreme caution. If the leather is heated too much, it can also be irreparably damaged. Therefore, always make a similar scratch on a concealed area under the sofa first and test it. The scratches must not be too deep.

PU split leather is sensitive to grease. Therefore, no ‘normal’ leather care products should be used, and areas that are in constant contact with skin or hair should be cleaned and cared for regularly with PU protector. Where possible and desired, contact areas should be protected with cushions and blankets. PU coatings that are already damaged (dull, sticky, roughened, cracked) can rarely be repaired. In most cases, the only option is to reupholster or buy a new item.

A common phenomenon with open-pored smooth leathers (aniline leather and semi-aniline leather) is the appearance of dark spots in the headrest and armrest areas. Over many years, the leather absorbs skin sweat and oils. These are gradually absorbed by the leather and become visible over time.

These unsightly stains cannot be removed by simple cleaning attempts. In such cases, please consult a specialist leather repair company. The leather will then be degreased and colour-matched. However, not every case can be saved, and not every leather will look like new again.

The following is a recommendation for how to proceed if you want to do the work yourself, within the limits of what is possible:

First, lightly dab the stained areas with a cloth slightly moistened with COLOURLOCK degreaser to loosen the grease. Do not work too wet and allow to dry in between! Then treat the greasy areas with COLOURLOCK grease remover spray. Spray the stains with the grease remover spray, overlapping the areas, and allow to dry completely. The solvent contained in the spray dissolves the grease and the powder absorbs the moisture. After drying, vacuum up the powder and carefully wipe or brush away any residue. Repeat the process until there is no further improvement or the stains are removed.

After cleaning, the greasy areas are often lighter or darker than the rest of the leather. The grease has then attacked the surface. You can use COLOURLOCK Leather Fresh to restore the colour of these areas. Leather Fresh also reduces the risk of new grease stains. However, this method is only successful on more or less single-coloured leather that is not too open-pored.

For further care and preservation, we recommend COLOURLOCK Aniline Protector. This product contains antioxidants and UV filters. However, avoid the areas that have darkened previously due to the care oils contained in the product. Otherwise, they could darken again. But for dry areas or areas exposed to the sun, regular, sparing care is an important protection against ageing damage.

Cats damage leather furniture for two reasons. Firstly, because cats slip on leather and extend their claws for better grip when jumping or moving around, or because they use the leather as a scratching post.

The following instructions apply to surface-dyed, single-colour, silk-matt smooth leather, which is most commonly used for furniture leather, and not to aniline leather or suede leather, or to furniture covered with imitation leather.

Distinguishing between types of smooth leather: If you rub a drop of water onto the leather (not in a stressed area) and the drop of water is absorbed and darkens the leather, then it is aniline leather. If the drop of water beads up, you have surface-dyed, coated or pigmented smooth leather. If your leather differs from this description, it is best to send us a more detailed description and photos of the furniture and damage by email.

There are also differences in quality within pigmented smooth leather. The denser the fibre structure, the less damage there is. The following case descriptions distinguish between the procedures for the different variants.

Case 1: Smooth leather where the scratches are mainly noticeable due to the colour difference
In the case of leathers that have a strong and dense fibre structure on the surface and not such thick layers of colour, scratches and signs of wear are usually noticeable because the scratches are lighter or, in the case of light-coloured leathers, darker. In addition, the scratches are noticeable due to the damage to the surface. The leather is then roughened in this area.

In the case of such damage, the leather is first completely cleaned with COLOURLOCK Leather Cleaner Mild. The damaged area is then degreased with COLOURLOCK Degreaser. COLOURLOCK Leather Sanding Pad is used to smooth the surface. Smooth the surface as much as possible using circular movements. The colour is evened out using COLOURLOCK Leather Fresh, the colour refresher in the appropriate colour. Leather Fresh is applied in circular movements. For extensive damage from seam to seam. In areas with increased coverage, it can also be applied by dabbing. For spot damage, it is sufficient to apply Leather Fresh with the COLOURLOCK mini brush. Always use a hairdryer to dry Leather Fresh. To smooth or even out irregularities, you can sand again with the leather sanding pad at any time after drying. Remaining indentations can be filled with COLOURLOCK liquid leather.

Damage caused by scratches with visible colour differences cannot be repaired invisibly, especially if there are many of them. However, a significant improvement can be achieved.

Finally, the leather is treated with COLOURLOCK Leather Protector.

Case 2: Raised triangular tears
Leather with thicker layers of colour on the surface also has a tendency to lift or tear when scratched by cats, resulting in small triangular tears or raised edges. In these cases, the colour difference is not the most noticeable feature.

The procedure is as follows: There is no material missing in the area of the raised edges. The task is to return the raised edges to their previous position. To do this, apply a minimal amount of COLOURLOCK leather adhesive with the COLOURLOCK mini brush and try as best you can to moisten the inside of the raised edges with a minimal amount of adhesive. To do this, apply a little glue to the mini brush and wipe off any excess before applying. Then dry the glue with a hairdryer and press the raised edges back into their original position with the back of the mini brush. Any remaining excess glue can be carefully removed in the direction of the grain with a cloth moistened with COLOURLOCK degreaser. If, after treatment, the damage is still visible as in ‘Case 1’, proceed as described there.

Important! Such damage cannot be repaired invisibly, and the repair work is very time-consuming. Take the necessary time and work your way forward in sections. You will quickly see whether the improvements achieved are worth the effort.

Case 3: Pulled leather fibres
Some types of smooth leather have a loose fibre structure under the colour layer. This is particularly true of embossed split leather. These types of leather are often used for the body of the sofa because the strain is less and, unlike the back, seat or armrests, lower-quality leather can be used. Cat scratches cause loose leather fibres to be pulled from the back to the front and then hang out of the scratch.

The procedure is as follows: The pulled leather fibres cannot be pushed back into their original position. Therefore, the fibres must be removed as best as possible with nail scissors. For large areas, this can also be done with a razor, but you must work very carefully so as not to cause unnecessary damage.

Any remaining raised edges are glued back down as described in ‘Typical case 2’, and any remaining visibility is adjusted as best as possible as in ‘Case 1’.

Case 4: Total damage due to excessive misuse as a scratching post
If the cat uses the leather furniture as a scratching post, or if the damage is left unattended for too long, repair is no longer feasible or possible. In such cases, the only options are to reupholster or replace the furniture.

Case 5: Faux leather furniture with triangular tears
Cat scratches are also typical on faux leather furniture. Due to the plastic coating on the underlying fabric, the damage often resembles the description in ‘Typical case 2’.

As in ‘Case 2’, individual areas can be glued back down and the remaining visibility can be evened out, but this will only ever be an improvement, and the work requires time and craftsmanship to achieve a worthwhile repair. In the case of extensive damage, repair is therefore not recommended, as a satisfactory result cannot be expected.

 

When removing ballpoint pen marks, marks from other pens, ink stains and other stains, it is important to correctly identify the type of leather. Using the wrong cleaning method can quickly cause further damage. We distinguish between the following types of leather when cleaning stains and marks:

Pigmented smooth leather: Pigmented smooth leather is leather with a layer of colour on the surface. A drop of water rubbed into the leather does not soak in, but rolls off. Pigmented smooth leather is usually silky matt and has a grained surface.

Aniline leather: Aniline leather is open-pored smooth leather. A drop of water rubbed into the leather soaks in and darkens the moistened area.

Suede leather: Suede leather has a velour-like surface. Nubuck leather has a very fine pile. Suede leather has a thicker pile, like the back of leather.

PU leather: PU leather, also known as Bycast leather, is split suede that has been coated with polyurethane to make it look like smooth leather. PU leather is easily recognisable by its shine and plastic-like feel.

Ballpoint pen on pigmented smooth leather:

Ballpoint pen marks on furniture and automotive leather or imitation leather are relatively common. Unfortunately, these are not always easy to remove.

Please note the following:

- The fresher a ballpoint pen mark is when treated, the easier it is to remove. Ballpoint pen marks that are three days old or older can only be removed without colour matching with a bit of luck.

Ballpoint pen on PU leather:

PU leather is usually dark, so marks are not such a problem. With PU leather, there is a risk that cleaning will damage the adhesive film. This film is very sensitive and cannot be easily repaired. It is therefore very important to test the product on a concealed area and never to clean with excessive pressure. It is better to leave any remaining stains. As this type of leather is usually multi-coloured, it cannot simply be colour-matched with Leather Fresh.

- Children's entire paintings are much more difficult to remove than short marks.

- Attempts to clean with the wrong products often increase the damage.

Procedure:

- To be on the safe side, you should always test the product on a concealed area first. It is best to make a mark in a concealed area and clean it a little more vigorously, then carefully clean the visible area if the test area could be cleaned without any problems.

- Some ballpoint pens release a lot of ink. To avoid smearing the ink over a larger area, first stick some masking tape (yellowish painter's tape) onto the mark and then pull it off again. Repeat the process until there is no longer any discolouration visible on the masking tape. This is the gentlest way to remove excess ink.

- Then clean the mark with the ballpoint pen remover. First, press the pen tip into the pen two or three times until it is saturated with the cleaning fluid.

- Then remove the ballpoint pen mark with light pressure in small circular movements. The mark is first softened by moistening it with the cleaning agent.

- Remove any loosened ink immediately with a cloth to avoid larger stains and to maintain a clear view. If necessary, wipe the pen tip with the cloth to remove any loosened ink. The tip can also be pulled out and reinserted into the pen upside down.

- Repeat the process if necessary and increase the pressure slightly.

- Older marks are difficult to remove without also dissolving the leather dye. In such cases, the areas must be colour-matched using Leather Fresh in the appropriate colour. However, pre-cleaning is always necessary to prevent the ballpoint pen ink from bleeding through when refreshing the colour.

- After cleaning, protect the cleaned areas with leather sealant.

Ballpoint pen on aniline leather:

Aniline leather is very sensitive due to its open pores, and ballpoint pen marks usually cannot be removed without the help of an expert. The risk of increasing the damage is very high. As with pigmented smooth leather, you should first test the product on a hidden area, and the use of masking tape is also recommended. However, there is nothing more that can be done. Ballpoint pen remover would only increase the damage to this type of leather, and Leather Fresh can only be used on completely single-colour leather. It is therefore always best to consult an expert first.

Ballpoint pen on suede leather:

Suede leather is sanded leather. Again, test on a concealed area first and use masking tape. Residual stains can then be removed from coarse pile with the sanding pad or nubuck eraser and from light pile with the nubuck sponge. Always test on a concealed area first and do not sand too long in one spot to avoid creating a ‘halo’ around the mark. It is better to give up in good time and leave a faded mark as it is.


Strokes made with fibre pens, ‘Edding’ or other permanent pens and ink stains

Strokes on pigmented smooth leather:

The procedure is the same as for ballpoint pen strokes. Please note the relevant recommendations. For ‘strokes’, ballpoint pen remover is the right recommendation. For smudged pencil marks, use our GLD solution for clothing stains. Any remaining stains must be colour-matched with Leather Fresh. After cleaning, re-protect the treated area with leather sealant.

Strokes on aniline leather:

Aniline leather is very sensitive due to its open pores and ‘paint’ cannot usually be removed without the help of an expert. The dyes sink into the leather and cannot be ‘cleaned’. There is a very high risk of increasing the damage. In such cases, it is better to seek expert advice.

Scratches on suede leather:

As with aniline leather, the dye sinks into the fibre. Depending on the coarseness of the pile, you can try to reduce the scratches slightly with a sanding pad or eraser for coarse pile and with a nubuck sponge for fine pile, but the chances of success are very slim, especially with pronounced scratches. In such cases, it is best to seek expert advice.

Scratches on PU leather:

As the coating is a closed film, some scratches can still be removed, as with pigmented smooth leather. However, always test on a concealed area first to see if the film is damaged!

Ink stains:

Ink stains on pigmented smooth leather can, with a bit of luck, be removed in the same way as pencil marks. As with clothing stains, GLD solution is the first choice. Follow the instructions carefully. Ink that has already penetrated the leather often cannot be ‘cleaned’. In the case of smooth leather, the ink will migrate back to the surface even with Leather Fresh. In such cases, it is best to seek expert advice. With suede leather, there are almost no options. Even the frequent ink stains caused by leaking pens on leather clothing are usually beyond repair. Attempting to clean them yourself is futile. Even experts are often unable to help.

A phenomenon that occasionally occurs is colour detachment on surface-dyed smooth leathers. Over time, a layer detaches from the surface, revealing an intact layer of colour underneath. Sometimes the detachment is extensive, and sometimes individual fluff particles detach over a large area. This phenomenon is also known as ‘delamination’.

The repair procedure
Important! If the colour has detached too much, repair will not be successful. Under no circumstances should you continue to pull on the leather or peel off the leather layer! This will only increase the damage unnecessarily. Intensive cleaning with aqueous leather cleaners also leads to this effect. When cleaning, do not rub too hard and only use brushes in exceptional cases and with caution.

Step 1:
First, degrease the leather with COLOURLOCK degreaser. To do this, apply some degreaser to a soft cloth and wipe the area from seam to seam.

Step 2:
Smooth and sand down the fluff and transition edges as best you can with the COLOURLOCK leather sanding pad. The aim is not to smooth the edges completely or to peel off the entire surface. The larger the areas, the more difficult the repair will be! Coarser edges can be cut off with nail scissors as close as possible to the tear edge. It is not a problem if slight lint or edges remain.

Step 3:
Remove the remaining sanding dust with the degreaser and a soft cloth.

Step 4:
Match the colour of the damaged area with COLOURLOCK Leather Fresh Colour Refresher and fix the protruding colour edges and colour fluff. The product can be applied in a circular motion or by dabbing. Important! Always dry each layer with a hairdryer in between. Irregularities can be smoothed out with the leather sanding pad. For slightly visible transitions, always work from seam to seam.

Step 5:
After 24 hours, protect and care for the leather with COLOURLOCK Leather Sealant. To do this, rub a little leather sealant into a soft cloth and apply sparingly in a circular motion. Do not rub too hard to avoid further colour loss!

Important! Leather with colour loss cannot be treated with classic grease or oil-based care products. This can increase the colour loss. Only use the leather sealant. If colour loss occurs again in other areas, take action in good time. The greater the damage, the more difficult it is to solve the problem yourself! Clean and care for the leather regularly in future, especially in areas of frequent use, every 3 months, without rubbing too hard. This procedure reduces the risk of skin and hair contact softening the colour layers through greasing.

 

With older, surface-dyed smooth leathers, there is sometimes a phenomenon of brittle areas where refreshing the colour with Leather Fresh is not enough and liquid leather is not the right solution. Leather Fresh is excellent for colouring out scratches, abrasion damage and slight fading. Liquid leather is ideal for individual cracks. It is not suitable for large areas.

To determine whether only the colour or also the leather is damaged, run your hand over the damaged area. If you feel resistance in one direction, the leather is also damaged. The fibre structure of animal skin is slanted, which causes this phenomenon. In such areas, the colour Neutral is an alternative.

First, thoroughly degrease these areas with our leather degreaser. Do not clean with mild leather cleaner or strong leather cleaner! The leather would only soak up moisture and become stiffer. These cleaners are only suitable for undamaged and dirty areas where moisture does not penetrate the leather.

After degreasing, apply the neutral colour with a sponge in the direction of the grain and allow to dry naturally without using a hairdryer. Repeat the process if necessary and smooth any rough areas with the sanding pad beforehand. The neutral colour is a strong binding agent that repairs damage to the leather without making it too stiff. Rougher areas can also be treated with a brush. Individual cracks or breaks can be closed with liquid leather. Finish by smoothing with the sanding pad.

After treatment, apply Leather Fresh several times with a sponge to refresh the colour, allowing it to dry with a hairdryer in between.

We recommend Leather Protector for regular care. Leather Protector contains antioxidants that reduce the deterioration of the leather. Its UV filters protect the surfaces from fading. In addition, the leather regains a supple surface.

Important! The neutral colour is intended for use on leather that is close to needing replacement. It will not make it look like new again, but will make it ‘durable’ for a further period of time.

Chesterfield suites or antique leather are characterised by their distinctive two-tone colouring. A darker layer of colour is wiped onto the often lighter base colour of the suite. The wipe effect is intentional and gives the leather its typical ‘antique look’. The leather is also known as wiped leather.

Cleaning

Antique leather is often used on suites with recessed buttons. Dirt accumulates around the buttons and the associated creases. These areas should be carefully pre-cleaned with a vacuum cleaner and a soft brush. If there is further soiling, the leather should be cleaned gently with the cleaner. With some Chesterfield leathers, the wiped-on colour is very sensitive to water and can be easily removed. In such cases, you can only carefully degrease the leather with our degreaser and then correct the colour.

Retouching signs of wear

The colour that has been rubbed off often wears away with use. The colour that has been rubbed off is completely worn away over time, especially in the armrests and seat areas. You can renew this colour with our Leather Fresh (usually black). For highly glossy leathers, you will need our Leather Fresh black ‘gloss’. Leder Fresh is applied evenly to the leather with a sponge and dried with a hairdryer. This application can and may be too dark. After thorough drying, you must remove the excess with our leather sanding pad. This will make the raised areas slightly lighter again and the leather will remain dark in the grain. Just like the original. You should test the technique on a concealed area first, if possible. The application seems complicated, but it is very simple.

With some shiny leathers, the shine effect has become dull in the area of use. This effect must then be renewed with our Leather Fresh ‘neutral shine’ or in the corresponding colour.

You can repair larger scratches and dry cracks with our liquid leather.

Care

Antique leather that has already suffered colour abrasion should be treated with our leather sealant. The leather sealant fixes the surface and reduces further colour abrasion. Afterwards, silk matt leather should be reconditioned with our Leather Protector and shiny leather with our Elephant Leather Grease. This keeps the leather supple and beautiful. Professional reconditioning of your leather upholstery can also be carried out by specialist companies. We would be happy to recommend your nearest specialist company.

 

Antique chair leather is often very brittle, dry and delicate. Depending on the extent of the damage, the leather can be restored to a greater or lesser degree. Only leather that is in very good condition will remain resilient after treatment. However, there are very few examples of this. As a rule, the leather can be restored to its former beauty, but it is unsuitable for everyday use. If you decide to have it restored, these chairs should only be used for decorative purposes, as otherwise the leather would show new damage in no time.

A. Preparations

1. If the leather is very dirty, you should first remove coarse dust or dirt with a leather cleaning brush. Remove any remaining dirt with a slightly damp cloth and a little aniline cleaner. Caution: Do not get the leather really wet! This will damage old leather!

2. If upholstery work needs to be done or the leather needs to be glued over a large area, the decorative nails must be levered out of the leather so that the leather can be worked on. Please note the following: When prying the heads out, the opposite side of the nail head presses into the leather and often damages it. This damage should be avoided as far as possible. In addition, decorative nails often break off during processing. You should therefore check in good time whether you can find identical decorative nails or whether you need to replace them all with suitable ones (size, colour, shape).

3. Hardened and brittle leather must be re-greased with a re-greasing agent. Spray or rub the leather with a mixture of 20% re-greasing agent and 80% warm water, applying low pressure. Allow to soak in and repeat after approx. 24 hours. Two to three applications are sufficient! Further applications will not improve the result, but will over-grease the leather.

4. Once the leather is soft enough, carefully degrease the surface with a terry cloth dampened with leather degreaser before carrying out repairs or colour treatment.

B. Repairs

As the leather is often brittle or even missing in places, extensive repairs are necessary.

For breaks and cracks: Prepare the repair areas degreased with degreaser with primer. Apply the primer with a sponge until the surface becomes slightly sticky. The primer improves adhesion. After the primer has dried (primed surfaces remain sticky after drying), fill the cracks with liquid leather. Large breaks or tears must be backed with thin leather or a fabric that is not too stiff and stabilised with leather adhesive.

For holes: Holes must be filled with suitable leather (usually vegetable-tanned leather). First, back the leather with thin leather or a fabric that is not too stiff and leather glue, then glue the matching leather on top and fill in the contours with liquid leather. Vegetable-tanned undyed leather is usually much too light and should be colour-matched beforehand with our antique finish.

For brittle leather: The neutral colour is a strong binding agent that restabilises brittle and slightly fragile leather and makes it more resilient. Apply the neutral colour with a sponge after priming and allow to dry naturally without using a hair dryer. For more severe damage, apply several coats with a brush and allow to dry naturally. The neutral colour can be sanded and smoothed with the leather sanding pad.

Liquid leather is for areas where filling is the main requirement, and the neutral colour is for smaller but extensive damage. Liquid leather cannot be sanded and is too thick for surface application.

C. Colour refreshment and care

1. After repairs, you can match the colour of the surface with our antique finish. The antique finish is applied with a sponge after priming. For very rough surfaces, smooth the surface with the sanding pad before priming. The antique finish restores the colour's brilliance and makes the surface shinier again.

2. Finally, rub a thin layer of Elephant leather grease into the leather. This care should be repeated approximately every 6 months for preservation.